Déborah Sitbon Neuberg
Were you working in menswear before starting the brand?
Not really. I was doing womenswear. I started at Hermes; I was doing women's silk accessories. So shawls, scarves, and all that. I remember I told my boss when I first started, "oh, I'm really into masculine-feminine style - and I think we should be doing that." I really shouldn't have said that - it was kind of funny. Then I worked in underwear in China for a big French retail chain. So, it was mainly women's underwear and a bit of men's underwear - not at all what I would do for this! And I really wanted to be working in menswear. I was really attracted to that part of the industry. When I decided to do my own thing, I started learning about it and getting into it.
What part of the menswear industry do you find the most appealing?
I really like second hand shops for old school menswear. I’m really into that, I want to do that more - mix my line with vintage stuff. I think that’s the interesting part, the second hand part.
What do you find so interesting about it?
I’ve always dressed from second hand shops. It’s just, I feel like in stuff that’s already been worn you have some of the soul of the person that has been wearing it, that’s inside it. It’s already worn out -
It had a life before!
And you can feel that. There is a vibe from the clothing that you can feel. I think that’s really elegant. I don’t like anything that looks too new.
Same!
So, that’s what I like about the industry. Also the people! There are different types of people that working in that part of the industry. I like the characters. This guy - I always talk about him, his name is Simon. And he has a shop just downstairs from my house. He’s just a character! He says his shop only attracts characters.
I love that!
He’s so funny. He sold me - I wore it today for you. This [top] for one euro. He told me he had a gift for me and I said don’t give me gifts because I don’t want to owe you anything and he said “I’ll give it to you for one euro.”
That’s so special! The colors are really great too.
He found me this really intense French hunters jacket from so many years ago. It has two parts that are clasped together with a metal clasp. It has all of these pockets. It’s from Annecy - a city in France close to Switzerland in the Alps.
Do you have any favorite magazines or anything you would read when you were younger that exposed you to style or women wearing men's clothes?
Not really because when I was younger and I would read fashion magazines I would read all the womenswear magazines. But I think, you know, in Paris, it was more Parisian street style. You would see women wearing men's shirts or that type of stuff. I don’t think it was from magazines. Not in my memory. I would read Vogue or Elle. And this really cool magazine we had in France called 20 ANS. It was very cheeky in the way it talked about your life. I can’t remember what was in it but I remember seeing a picture of Emmanuelle Alt from her days there, who is now the chief editor of French Vogue. But she had a very boyish style. She’s had it forever. I think seeing women like her probably influenced me.
Any movies?
Annie Hall! Can’t think of anything now. Of course, Annie Hall.
Have you seen any outfits from that movie show up in your collection while designing?
I’ve definitely been inspired by it myself but not directly.
Is there a time period you’d like to be dropped in just for the clothes?
Maybe early 60’s.
What would you wear? Do you have an outfit in mind?
I think I’d probably wear a men’s outfit from one of those early 60s movies. I’m obsessed with Paul McCartney's outfit in Magical Mystery Tour. Where he has this little fair isle knit vest.
I need a vest! I’ve been thinking about that a lot recently.
Who doesn’t! We all need one!
What do you buy “too much” of?
Maybe these shoes, Spalwart shoes. I use them but I keep them so they’re totally used but in my closet. Maybe also sweaters.
Do you have sweaters mostly from your line or any other favorites?
I have stuff from my own line, from Muji … I also have stuff from my dad like Burberry triple ply cashmere vests. I have some of my moms early 90’s ribbed t-shirts. Last time she saw me in one and was like “This is from your birth year! Why are you wearing this? I didn’t even know you had it!” I was like “Yeah! I took it from your closet!!” I probably had it for 10 years but she just noticed now.
Do you have a best impulse purchase you bought that you wear all the time?
I don’t really make impulse purchases.
Do you plan?
I don’t buy anything. Really, I buy so little and wear things over and over again. I just wear my stuff - I wear samples. I’ll buy sometimes t-shirts or maybe the tourist t-shirt thing is something I buy impulsively. I love Paris or a Paris sweater - that’s something I wear all the time. I just buy them at the tourist shops!
I love that you do that! That’s really great. If you do go shopping, what do you have the most trouble finding? And then, is that something you’ve brought into your collection because of that?
I don’t really shop so - when I go looking for stuff I’m just walking in the flea market or vintage shops. I’m more into getting surprised by what I find.
What are you looking for now? What have you not stopped thinking about?
I like striped shirts!
Oh me too! I have piles, it’s bad.
So I’ll always be looking for different types of stripes. Any type of coat. Rain coats, I love the really long rain coats. I love when old men wear them. I’m always looking, I won’t necessarily shop for it. Studying the different lengths or fits. It’s almost like I’m studying rather than buying. If something is cheap and fun and interesting than I’ll get it.
So for the most part you’re studying to kind of bring it into your collection?
Yeah!
What do you draw the most inspiration from?
A mix of artists clothes, artist wearing clothes. I feel like it incarnates them in a way. Also street style - like old men in the street.
Do you follow gramparents?
Oh yeah! Do you know oldjewishmen? There are some great outfits in there.
Do you look at older people the most for inspiration?
Yes! I love it.
It’s easy. They have it down! I saw a woman when I was walking over that had these great shoes on. I wish I knew what they were. They looked like Paraboots with a hiking boot top and a big lug sole. She had them on with this long dress and hiking socks. I was like - this is the best thing I’ve ever seen!
That’s amazing. I can’t wait until I’m one of those women!
Me too! I want my hair to be gray so I can wear huge glasses!
Last time I was in New York I took a picture of this old lady in the subway with this really long vintage fur coat and trainers - GOALS, although I don’t support the fur industry!
You wear glasses too. When you’re old you can get away with wearing big cool glasses!
Yes!! For sure!
I like how you’ve made a lot of sweatpants.
Yeah, mixing sweatpants with really luxurious stuff like the camel hair coat or the Harris Tweed. That’s something I got from New York. In Central Park older men will wear really great coats with a cap and trainers.
Do you think women wearing menswear has taken off in Paris?
I think in Paris it has always been cool to wear your boyfriend's stuff or men’s stuff. It’s part of the style in Paris - a certain style in Paris, not all. I think it’s very restricted to a certain class and type of person that is into fashion. In central Paris, classy upper class style, it has always been there.
Have you experimented with different styles? Or have you always dressed the same?
I experimented with hippie style when I was in middle school to early high school. My friends were into that style so I got into it.
What were you wearing?
Bell bottoms with fringes. Tie dye t-shirts. That kind of stuff!
Have you brought any of it back into your designing?
Not yet! Maybe on the t-shirt side I might.
Also, I’ve been starting to bring more content about masculinity and questioning gender to my customers. I think because I read so much about feminism and gender, I really want people that follow us to have access to that content.
